Helmut-isms: The Language of Lang

As what feels like the world anticipates Peter Do’s debut collection as Creative Director at Helmut Lang. A brand that has drifted so far from its provenance. What better time to delve into the house codes (or Helmut-isms) ahead of the change of guards.

The name Helmut Lang is of course instantaneous with the denim. But utility, deconstruction and minimalism, which defined the 'anti-fashion' movement of the 90s were also just a prevalent. During the years of Lang's tenure at his namesake label, he exercised through variations of staples creating an abundance of meaninglessly (in the best way) simple design . Designing through the limitations of what products sell; Lang unintentionally created a wardrobe that blurred the lines between menswear and womenswear. HL made simple clothes feel special and has been a huge influence of the inspiration behind the 'everyday' of today. Opting for subversively classic clothing that can be layered and styled together.

Images sourced from collections before Helmut Lang's departure from the brand in 2005.

The Parka

Influenced by his outer city upbringing, Lang's collections often incorporated military motifs, one of his staples being the parka. This ones for the 'menswear archive bros'. Most famously featured in the Fall 98 collection; dyed in a varying tones of cotton canvas and leather, the collection featured biker inspired additions, with a necklines inspired by firefighter jackets, giving an astro feel - cue Travis Scott. Tisci was also a fan of Lang's imitation of the M-65 Parka, as inspiration can be seen in his Givenchy Fall 09 collection.

The Tank

Throughout Lang's practice there is a scattered evolution of the wife-beater. It is one of the core items that has been deconstructed and redux times over across the archive. Reworked in many different fabrics with juxtapositions from basketball mesh paired with lace to classic jersey and tulle. The tank or remnants of it is used both to layer and as an under garment through out collections and is a staple of the elevated basics Helmut Lang interpreted over and over.

Utility

Military and utilitarian influence has been a core focus since the inception of the brand; Bomber jackets inspired by German Air Force (Luftwaffe), re-constructed military tunics and renditions of the French Army's F2 jackets appear throughout. Often demonstrated in accessorization; tactical vests and armbands, oversized hip satchels, cummerbunds turned into waist bags and parachute harnesses layered over dresses.

Bondage

Avant-garde lingerie referential of bondage is another element which Mr Lang is know for, simple-sexy exuded in the unconventional. Fabric profiles of the ss01 collection include; leather and suede carefully layered across and around the body reminiscent of BDSM and kink scene attire. Cut-out motifs and bra straps. Lace up details on women's trousers that resemble corsetry, leather bralettes and fabric bandaged around the hands and arms.

Sheer

Instrumental in the formation of the quietly avant-garde aesthetic, favouring tulle and organza as mediums. It wasn't uncommon for the models to slink down the runway in sheer dresses, shirts and skirts. A soft approach to sensuality, an eminent feature of the ss00 and ss92 collections. The lightweight transparent fabric flows across the body allowing fluidity and movement whilst adding whimsy to a look. Lang would also juxtapose this element against more robust pieces such as tailored garments and leather.

Accessories

When it came to accessories, Helmut Lang would often create unconventional novelties of the everyday - pill boxes coated in leather, transparent cigarette cases or a functional money clip. Not accredited to a logo ridden bag that announces status, but more so understated obscure objects, the hand cuff bracelet being the most infamous.

'Thank you for my handcuff! … I’m yours forever!'

- Carine Roitfeld, French Vogue editor, in a letter to Helmut Lang